TPU Stringing and Speed: Why Printing Too Fast Makes It Worse
Fix TPU stringing by slowing to the recommended 15–40 mm/s, keeping the nozzle at 210–250 °C, and setting the bed correctly, per Polymaker's TPU printing guide.
All 11 published guides on 3D Print Fixes.
Fix TPU stringing by slowing to the recommended 15–40 mm/s, keeping the nozzle at 210–250 °C, and setting the bed correctly, per Polymaker's TPU printing guide.
Fix PLA stringing with the specific retraction distance, retraction speed and temperature values from Simplify3D's troubleshooting guide.
Fix PLA over-extrusion and bulging sides by calibrating the extrusion multiplier (typical for PLA: near 0.9) using Simplify3D's calibration method.
Fix PLA bed adhesion and first-layer problems with Polymaker's recommended nozzle (190–230 °C) and bed (40–60 °C) temperatures, plus 100 % cooling for sharp details.
Stop PETG corner lifting with a 70–85 °C heated bed, 220–260 °C nozzle, a slow 20–30 mm/s first layer, and reduced drafts and cooling.
How to fix PETG stringing and oozing on the Original Prusa MINI and MINI+ using its Bowden retraction length, retraction speed and nozzle temperature.
Fix PETG stringing on direct-drive machines like the Prusa MK2.5 and MK3 by keeping retraction at 2 mm or less, retracting on layer change, and dropping nozzle temperature 5–10 °C.
Get Polymaker™ PETG to stick and lay down a clean first layer using its recommended nozzle (240–260 °C), bed (60–70 °C) and cooling-fan (20–60 %) settings.
Dry nylon (PA) at 50–70 °C for 6–8 hours, print at 220–260 °C with a 70–100 °C bed, and use an enclosure to stop PA warping and moisture bubbles.
Fix ASA corner lifting and warping with Polymaker's recommended bed (90–110 °C), nozzle (240–280 °C, start at 250 °C), 60 °C chamber, and reduced part cooling.
Stop ABS corner lifting and layer splitting with PolyLite™ ABS's recommended bed (90–100 °C) and nozzle (245–265 °C) temperatures, plus a warm, draft-free enclosure.