ASA is sold as ABS that survives sunlight, but the two share the same printing habit: both shrink as they cool, and on a large flat part the corners lift off the bed unless the chamber and bed stay warm. The good news is that Polymaker's ASA printing data spells out the exact temperatures, and ASA needs less fuss than ABS to hold its shape.
ASA at a glance
Every number in this guide comes from the Polymaker ASA wiki page, which lists the key settings for printing ASA:
| Setting | Recommended value |
|---|---|
| Nozzle temperature | 240–280 °C (start at 250 °C) |
| Bed temperature | 90–110 °C |
| Print speed | 35–70 mm/s |
| Chamber | ~60 °C, draft-free |
| Part cooling | reduced or disabled |
| Retraction | 1–2 mm at 20–30 mm/s |
Why ASA lifts off the bed
ASA warping is a cooling problem, the same mechanism Simplify3D describes for ABS in its warping guide: plastic shrinks as it cools, and an ABS part printed at 230 °C and then cooled to room temperature shrinks by almost 1.5 %. Each new layer contracts a little more than the one below it, pulling the corners up until the part peels free. ASA behaves the same way, which is why the fixes overlap with ABS — but ASA's numbers are its own.
Set the bed, then the chamber
Start with the bed. Polymaker recommends 90–110 °C for ASA, and lists PEI sheets, BuildTak, or an adhesion aid such as Magigoo Original for reliable first-layer grip (ASA guide). A bed that is too cool is the fastest way to get corner lift, because the bottom layers cool and shrink while the top layers are still hot.
Then seal in the heat. Polymaker calls an enclosure or warm, draft-free ambient air critical for minimizing warping and cracking, especially on large prints, and gives a 60 °C chamber as the ideal (same ASA guide). Simplify3D's warping guide makes the same point in reverse: a heated bed only keeps the bottom layers warm, so an enclosure is what keeps the upper layers from contracting as the part grows taller.
Nozzle, speed, and cooling
With the bed and chamber set, dial the nozzle. Polymaker's range for ASA is 240–280 °C, and it suggests starting at 250 °C and adjusting for the filament brand. Print slowly — 35–70 mm/s — because slower speeds improve layer bonding, and reduce or disable part cooling fans to prevent rapid cooling and warping (ASA guide). Disabling the fan matches Simplify3D's advice for materials that warp.
Check the corners
Print a flat rectangle with a brim, as Simplify3D recommends for parts that still curl. If the corners stay down through the whole print and the part releases only after the bed cools, the settings are right. If a corner still lifts, raise the bed within the 90–110 °C range and confirm the chamber is closed before touching the nozzle temperature.
FAQ
Is ASA really better than ABS for outdoor parts?
Yes, and it is in the material data. Polymaker's ASA page rates ASA's UV resistance as excellent and ABS's as poor, which is why ASA keeps its color outdoors while ABS does not (ASA guide).
Does ASA need the same hot bed as ABS?
The bed range is the same — Polymaker lists 90–110 °C for ASA and 90–110 °C for ABS on their respective wiki pages. The real differences show up elsewhere: ASA is rated moderate print difficulty against ABS's challenging, and ASA's UV resistance is excellent where ABS's is poor (ASA guide, ABS guide).
Do I need an all-metal hotend for ASA?
Polymaker notes that an all-metal hotend is recommended if you attempt to print above 240 °C, which ASA's 240–280 °C range does (ASA guide).